Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Mediterranean and Europe 1000 BC – AD 1000

Copenhagen, June 18-22, 2014


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PresentationThe workshop will explore textile terminologies in a range of languages and cultures : terms for fibres, tools, techniques, occupational designations, garments, wardrobes, accessories, furnishing textiles, and the metaphorical uses of textiles ; the position and development of textile terminologies within the wider field of vocabulary and semantics. We welcome both presentations on defined areas as well as comparative studies, synchronic and diachronic approaches.
The workshop follow up on the 2009 European Science Foundation Exploratory Workshop which was published in Cécile Michel & Marie-Louise Nosch (eds.), Textile Terminologies in the Ancient Near East and Mediterranean from the Third to the First Millennia BC, Ancient Textiles Series 8, Oxbow Books, Oxford (2010) 444 pages.
The 2014 terminology workshop is a part of the Programme International de Coopération Scientifique (PICS) called TexOrMed. Textiles de l’Orient à la Méditerranée du IIIe au Ier millénaire avant J.-C. / Textiles from Orient to the Mediterranean from the Third to the First millennia BC. The project is based on the collaboration between

      • Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique, UMR7041, Archéologies et Sciences de l’Antiquité, Maison René Ginouvès 21, allée de l’université, Nanterre, France

and

  • The Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, Saxo Institute, University of Copenhagen, Njalsgade 80, 2300 København S, Denmark

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ESOF

International conference, June 18-22, 2014 

Organized by 

Salvatore Gaspa (CTR, Copenhagen)Cécile Michel (CNRS, ArScAn-HAROC, Nanterre)Marie-Louise Nosch (CTR, Copenhagen)
Official Satellite Event of European Science Open Forum 2014


 

Textile Terminologies

 

 

from the Orient to the Mediterranean and Europe

 

 

1000 BC – AD 1000

 

Programme
Wednesday, June 18 : Evening Keynote Lecture

Place : Statens Naturhistoriske Museum, Copenhagen

  • 17.30 : Registration
  • 18.00 : Felicitas Maeder, Projekt Muschelseide, Naturhistorisches Museum, Basel, CH
    Irritating Byssus – A Term Through the Ages

Thursday, June 19

Place : University of Copenhagen, Southern Campus, Auditorium 23.0.49

  • 9.00 : Welcome and Introduction by M.-L. Nosch, C. Michel and S. Gaspa

Raw materials and tools

  • 9.30 : Michael Meier-Brügger, Freie Universität Berlin, DE
    The Terminology for Wool and Wool-producing (to Pluck, Comb, Shear, Spin) in Ancient Greece and Rome
  • 9.50 : Mary Harlow, Berit Hildebrandt, Marie-Louise Nosch & Peder Flemestad, The Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, DK
    Textile Tools in the Diocletian edict of Maximum Prices
  • 0.10 : Hang Lin, Universität Hamburg, DE
    “Carved Silk” and “Golden Brocade” : Central Asian Influence and Medieval Chinese Silk Textiles, ca. 700-1100
  • 10.30 : Discussion
  • 10.50 : Coffee break
  • 11.10 : Nahum Ben-Yehuda, Bar Ilan University, IL
    Flax-Linen Terminology in Talmudic Literature

Techniques and manufacture

  • 11.40 : Louise Quillien, Université Paris I, FR
    Tools and Crafts, the Terminology of Textile Manufacturing in the First Millennium BC Mesopotamia
  • 12.00 : Agnès Korn, Universität Frankfurt am Main, DE
    Armenian karmir, Sogdian karmīr “red”, Hebrew karmīl and the Armenian Scale Insect Dye in Antiquity
  • 12.20 : Discussion
  • 12.40 : Lunch
  • 14.00 : Herbert Grassl, Universität Salzburg, A
    Textile Terminologies in Lead tesserae : Problems of Reading and Interpretation
  • 14.20 : John Peter Wild & Kerstin Dross-Krüpe, University of Manchester, UK, Universität Kassel, DE
    Ars polymita, ars plumaria : the Weaving Terminology of taqueté and Tapestry
  • 14.40 : Ines Bogensperger & Bernhard Palme, Department of Papyri, Austrian National Library, A
    Textile Industry in Documentary Papyri from Late Antiquity
  • 15.00 : Discussion
  • 15.20 : Anne Regourd & Fiona J.L. Handley, Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique, UMR 7192, FR, Solent University, UK
    A Name of a Workshop on a Piece of Textile : the Case of the Document A.L.18 (Vienna)
  • 15.40 : Peter Herz, Universität Regensburg, DE
    Beschaffung und Handel mit Farbstoffen
  • 16.00 : Discussion
  • Free evening

Friday, June 20

Place : University of Copenhagen, Southern Campus, Auditorium 23.0.49

Garment names

  • 9.00 : Maria Papadopoulou, Ministry of Education, GR
    Dismantling the Mantle or Unweaving the chlamys ? A Semantically Oriented Gaze at Ancient Greek Garment Terms Designating “cloak”
  • 9.20 : Stella Spantidaki, Centre for Research and Conservation of Archaeological Textiles, UCL, UK
    Remarks on the Interpretation of Some Ambiguous Greek Textile Terms
  • 9.40 : Kerstin Dross-Krüpe, Universität Kassel, DE
    Dalmatike – Maphortes – Synthesis. Same but Different ? Garments in Dowries from 2nd and 3rd century Egypt
  • 10.00 : Discussion
  • 10.20 : Coffee break
  • 10.40 : Christina Katsikadeli, Universität Salzburg, A
    Jewish Terminologies for Fabrics and Garments in Late Antiquity : Evidence from the Mishna and the Talmuds
  • 11.00 : Maria Mossakowska-Gaubert, Institut français d’archéologie orientale au Caire, FR
    Tuniques portées en Égypte à l’époque byzantine : vocabulaire grec
  • 11.20 : Oswald Panagl, Universität Salzburg, A
    Der Text als Gewebe : Lexikalische Studien im Sinnbezirk von Webstuhl und Kleid
  • 11.40 : Discussion
  • 12.00 : Lunch

Symbolic and Religious meanings

  • 14.00 : Orit Shamir, Israel Antiquities Authority, IL
    Sha’atnez (Deuteronomy 22:11) – The Biblical Prohibition Against Wearing Mixed Wool and Linen Together and the Observance and Enforcement of the Command in the Orthodox Jewish Communities Today
  • 14.20 : Christian Høgel, University of Southern Denmark, DK
    “No Silken Gown to Wear Around my Shoulders” : Prescribing and Jesting about Clothing in Constantinople
  • 14.40 : Götz König, Ruhr-Universität Bochum/Friei Universität Berlin, DE
    Magical Adornment in Avestan Culture : Bones, Feathers, Stones and Twigs
  • 15.00 Discussion
  • 16.00 : Coffee break at CTR

Poster session : presentation of posters by authors and discussion
Place : Centre for Textile Research, Amager Fælledvej 56

  • Elena Soriga, Università di Napoli “L’Orientale”, I
    The Elegance of the Hedgehog. Raw Materials and Fulling Technology in Mediterranean and Near Eastern Wool Textile Industry from Ancient Until Modern Times.
  • Luigi Malatacca, Università di Napoli “L’Orientale”, I
    Ordinary People’s Garments in Neo- and Late-Babylonian Sources : an Overview
  • Katarina Nina Simončič, University of Zagreb, HR
    A Contribution to Understanding the Textile Terminology in the Dalmatian Area between 2nd century BC and 9th century AD
  • Francesco Meo, Università del Salento, I
    The oscillum misunderstanding
  • Maciej Szymaszek, University of Gothenburg, SE
    “At istae Gammadiae nihil aliud erant, quam…” – The Textile Terms gammadia and gammula
  • Egzona Haxha, The Danish National Research Foundation’ Centre for Textile Research, DK
    Albanian and Greek Textile Terminologies
  • 17.30 : Reception at the CTR

Saturday, June 21

Place : Centre for Textile Research, Amager Fælledvej 56

Metaphors on textile terms

  • 9.30 : Stefan Niederreiter, Universität Salzburg, A
    A Closer Look on Textile Terminology and its Metaphorical Use in Vedic
  • 9.50 : Giovanni Fanfani, The Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, DK
    Primus inter Crafts : Textile Terminology and the Poetics of Archaic and Classical Greek Song
  • 10.10 : Carolina MacMahon, independent scholar, UK
    “Testimony from the Least of Man’s Crafts” : Textile Imagery in Late Antique Coptic Religious Texts
  • 10.30 : Discussion
  • 10.50 : Coffee break

Textile terminology and loan words

  • 11.10 : Salvatore Gaspa, The Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, DK
    Garments, Parts of Textiles, and Textile Procedures in the Assyrian Terminology : The Neo-Assyrian Textile Lexicon in the Light of the First Millennium BC Linguistic Context
  • 11.30 : Miguel Ángel Andrés-Toledo, The Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, DK
    The Pahlavi Translations of Avestan Textile Terms
  • 11.50 : Discussion
  • 12.10 : Lunch
  • 14.00 : Zhao Feng, China National Silk Museum, PRC
    Western Textiles in Chinese Literature (3-14th centuries)
  • 14.20 : Roland Schuhmann, Friedrich Schiller Universität Jena, DE
    Textile Terminology in Old High German between Inherited and Loan Words
  • 14.40 : Peder Flemestad, The Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, DK
    Ancient Greek Verbs of Dyeing
  • 15.00 : Discussion
  • 18.30 : Conference dinner at Grill Royal, Tivoli Garden

Sunday, June 22 : morning only

Place : Centre for Textile Research, Amager Fælledvej 56

Classifications of textile terms (lectures)

  • 10.00 : Ellen Harlizius-Klück, The Danish National Research Foundation’ Centre for Textile Research, DK
    The Reverse Side of Classification
  • 10.20 : Kalliope Sarri, Athens, GR
    MITOS : Conceptualizing Greek Textile Terminologies
  • 10.40 : Susanne Lervad & Tove Engelhardt Mathiassen, The Danish National Research Foundation’ Centre for Textile Research, Den Gamle By (The Old Town), National Open Air Museum of Urban History and Culture, DK
    Textilnet.dk
  • 11.00 : Wang Le & Zhao Feng, Donghua University, PRC
    The Compilation of the Chinese Textile Terminology
  • 11.20 : Discussion, summing up and conclusion of the conference

download the programme here

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